Mezcal
Often characterised as the lawless cousin of Tequila, mezcal is in fact a legally regulated spirit found in various parts of Mexico, but most famously in the southern state of Oaxaca. It is made using various types of agave β while Tequila is a monoculture of blue agave, mezcal uses dozens of sub-species β and a highly artisanal production method.
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Traditionally, mezcal agave is baked in underground earth ovens, which imparts the distinctive aromas for which it is famed. But techniques β and the flavours they impart β vary enormously among the multiplicity of small mezcal producers.
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Like Tequila, mezcal can be unaged (βjovenβ or βyoungβ), or aged in wood for months or sometimes years. Most often consumed neat in Mexico, mezcal is now finding a place on many cocktail lists across the US and Europe.
What started out as a way for company founder John Rexer to supply his bar in Antigua Guatemala with mezcal (not always officially, as the name suggests) is now a thriving business in which rum giant Bacardi owns a stake. Respectability hasnβt changed the authentic core of Ilegal, however, which manages to convey the essential character of mezcal in a supremely accessible way.
Serving Suggestions: This is a great introduction to mezcal, so neat is the way to go β but it makes for an intriguing comparison with a traditional Tequila margarita, where that earthy smoke really cuts through.
Tasting Notes
Highly perfumed nose of smouldering greenwood, spice and bonfire embers. Very earthy, but still refined, with warm citrus β ripe orange skin in particular. The palate brings more of that savoury, earthy smoke, but thereβs enough restraint to allow the perfumed fruit to return. The finish is redolent of a neglected bonfire smouldering in a rain shower. Nicely balanced between smoothness and spiky character.
















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